Caring for an African Pygmy Hedgehog
APHs can be wonderful pets, but they are not for everyone. Please do your research before deciding to add a prickly family member.
Some things to know, before reading the specific care requirements:
Some things to know, before reading the specific care requirements:
- Hedgehogs are an exotic pet. They are expensive to own. It would only be responsible to own a hedgehog if you can easily afford to buy one from a reputable breeder, along with an acceptable cage set up. Responsible owners should also be prepared for any vet bills that may result if their hedgehog becomes ill, which can easily run hundreds of dollars.
- Responsible owners have confirmed (before buying their hedgehog) that there is an exotic vet within reasonable driving distance, should there be an emergency. This can't be stressed enough. Do not buy a hedgehog if you do not have access to an exotic vet. It simply isn't fair.
Cage Options for Your Hedgehog
Things to Consider When Choosing Your Cage
Hedgehogs need a minimum of 4 square feet of floor space in their cage. This provides room for only the necessities: a sleeping place, a wheel, and their food/water dishes. Any smaller than this is not acceptable. Be wary of buying very large cages with a lot of floor space. Hedgehogs are a prey animal, and usually do not enjoy a lot of open space. If you would like to keep your hedgehog in a larger cage, make sure about 75% of the cage is filled with hiding places, toys, tunnels, and other cage accessories. If it looks cluttered to you, then it looks perfect to your hog.
It is very important for your cage to have a solid bottom, not a wire one. Hedgehogs are not meant to climb, but they will still try. If they climb, they will fall and hurt themselves. They have been known to break bones and poke their eyes out from a quill. Therefore, it is very important to not give them access to horizontal bars within their reach. Attaching chloroplast to the bottom 10-12 inches of the cage should prevent climbing. Similarly, be very cautious of vertical bars, as some hedgehogs have gotten their heads stuck and suffocated. The chloroplast on the bottom of the cage is never a bad idea, as it is better to be safe than sorry.
Another important thing to consider when choosing your cage is heating. Hedgehogs must be kept in a cage that is able to retain a constant temperature of 72-78 degrees. Cages that have grid walls, like C&C cages, are very hard to heat, whereas sterilite bin cages are not. Keep in mind that if you choose to house your hog in a C&C, you will most likely need 2 CHE heating systems to keep the cage at the proper temperature.
Hedgehogs need a minimum of 4 square feet of floor space in their cage. This provides room for only the necessities: a sleeping place, a wheel, and their food/water dishes. Any smaller than this is not acceptable. Be wary of buying very large cages with a lot of floor space. Hedgehogs are a prey animal, and usually do not enjoy a lot of open space. If you would like to keep your hedgehog in a larger cage, make sure about 75% of the cage is filled with hiding places, toys, tunnels, and other cage accessories. If it looks cluttered to you, then it looks perfect to your hog.
It is very important for your cage to have a solid bottom, not a wire one. Hedgehogs are not meant to climb, but they will still try. If they climb, they will fall and hurt themselves. They have been known to break bones and poke their eyes out from a quill. Therefore, it is very important to not give them access to horizontal bars within their reach. Attaching chloroplast to the bottom 10-12 inches of the cage should prevent climbing. Similarly, be very cautious of vertical bars, as some hedgehogs have gotten their heads stuck and suffocated. The chloroplast on the bottom of the cage is never a bad idea, as it is better to be safe than sorry.
Another important thing to consider when choosing your cage is heating. Hedgehogs must be kept in a cage that is able to retain a constant temperature of 72-78 degrees. Cages that have grid walls, like C&C cages, are very hard to heat, whereas sterilite bin cages are not. Keep in mind that if you choose to house your hog in a C&C, you will most likely need 2 CHE heating systems to keep the cage at the proper temperature.
Sterilite Bin Cages
Sterilite plastic bins can be an excellent cage choice for your hog. It is made of a durable plastic and the lid can easily by modified to support a CHE, if you choose. You can also drill holes in the sides for added ventilation. The absolute minimum size bin you can use for a cage is 105 qts. The floor dimensions should be no smaller than 18"x30". Many people drills holes in the sides of 2 or 3 bins and connect them using a 4" PVC pipe to increase the size of the cage and give their hedgehog different "rooms". You can find these bins at Walmart or Target. During certain times of the year, you can buy "Christmas tree bins", which are much larger and also a great option.
Sterilite plastic bins can be an excellent cage choice for your hog. It is made of a durable plastic and the lid can easily by modified to support a CHE, if you choose. You can also drill holes in the sides for added ventilation. The absolute minimum size bin you can use for a cage is 105 qts. The floor dimensions should be no smaller than 18"x30". Many people drills holes in the sides of 2 or 3 bins and connect them using a 4" PVC pipe to increase the size of the cage and give their hedgehog different "rooms". You can find these bins at Walmart or Target. During certain times of the year, you can buy "Christmas tree bins", which are much larger and also a great option.
- Pros of bin cages: easy to heat, inexpensive, capable of adding on
- Cons of bin cages: small, not much room for extra cage accessories, not as pleasing to the eye as other cages
C&C Cages
C&C cages can also be great options for hogs. These are cages you build from grid panels (14"x14", usually) with a chloroplast floor and sides to prevent climbing. You can find chloroplast (plastic sign material) at Home Depot, sign shops, and online. These cages are extremely interactive, with no lid, allowing you to easily observe and play with your baby. Because of the lack of a lid, C&Cs are not for people who own other pets that may harm the hedgehog, such as cats or large dogs. Many people like the look of C&C cages, as they are easily customizable. Most people do 2x2 or 2x3 cages, which gives the hog plenty of floor space. However, C&C cages are hard to heat. You may require more than one CHE system.
- Pros of C&C cages: interactive, customizable size, visually pleasing, plenty of floorspace
- Cons of C&C cages: hard to heat, more expensive than bin cages, time consuming, and not for owners with other pets that may harm the hedgehog
Store-bought Small Animal Cages
There are several animal cages sold at pet stores that are acceptable to house hedgehogs in, so long as they meet the following requirements:
There are several animal cages sold at pet stores that are acceptable to house hedgehogs in, so long as they meet the following requirements:
- Solid bottom
- 4 feet of floor space, or at least 18"x30"
- Can be modified to prevent climbing
- NOT a tank or aquarium - these do not allow for proper airflow or ventilation, and therefore are unsuitable for a hedgehog to live in. Often, the lack of ventilation will cause respiratory issues for the hog, as hogs are prone to this illness.
- No ramps/different levels - Hedgehogs have very poor eyesight, and can easily fall off of ramps and second story levels in cages and hurt themselves. Ramps are only acceptable if they are modified so that the hedgehog cannot accidentally walk off. The same is true for higher levels.
Bedding Options
Hedgehogs need some type of bedding to cover the bottom of their cage. There are several options.
Unacceptable options:
- Fleece is the best option, in my opinion, and is also the most widely used. You can buy any fleece from a fabric store and cut it to fit the bottom of your cage. You can also sew the fleece to double layer it and make it look nicer. There are also multiple etsy shops that sell fleece liners in all different sizes, but this is far more expensive than just doing it yourself. Fleece is the cheapest bedding option, as it is washable/reusable. Fleece is also the most environmentally friendly and visually pleasing.
- Carefresh is a great option and can be found at most pet stores. It encourages hedgehogs' natural foraging ability, but can be very expensive to use as a bedding choice. Be sure to freeze the bag of Carefresh for 48 hours prior to use to prevent mites. Better safe than sorry!
- Aspen wood shavings are another option for bedding. It is acceptable, but in my opinion, not preferred. It allows for foraging, but must also be frozen 48 hours prior to use to prevent mites. It also poses a threat to male hogs, as particles of the shavings have been known to get stuck in their penile sheath and cause infection.
Unacceptable options:
- CEDAR SHAVINGS: TOXIC TO HEDGEHOGS.
- NEWSPAPER, as the ink can be toxic and problematic if it gets wet.
Heating
Heating is the single most important part of your set-up. Hedgehogs require a cage temperature of at least 72 degrees at all times (no higher than 80 degrees), or they can attempt hibernation, which is fatal. Please understand that just because you keep your house at 72, cages are often kept on the floor or near windows, and the temperature can be significantly different. A heat set-up is necessary for 99% of owners. Just because you are comfortable, doesn't mean your hog is.
There are a few options for heating.
Ceramic Heat Emitter
This is a bulb that only gives off heat, not light. Hibernation attempts can be triggered by constant light/darkness, so it is very important to avoid infrared bulbs and other bulbs that may emit light. If you choose this setup, you will need the following items:
Space Heater
If you have multiple hogs, you may find it easier and cheaper to heat the entire room. A space heater can be a great option, as long as you monitor the temperatures of each cage with a digital thermometer (here or here) and ensure that the heating is adequate.
**No matter what heating source you use (even if you keep your home at 78 degrees and don't require one), you MUST have a thermometer (here or here) in the cage to read the temperature at all times.**
There are a few options for heating.
Ceramic Heat Emitter
This is a bulb that only gives off heat, not light. Hibernation attempts can be triggered by constant light/darkness, so it is very important to avoid infrared bulbs and other bulbs that may emit light. If you choose this setup, you will need the following items:
- A CHE bulb, either 100 watt (found here) or 150 watt (found here). (Please note that C&C type cages are harder to heat, and may require more than one CHE)
- A 8.5 or larger dome to hold the bulb (found here)
- A thermostat to regulate the CHE (100% necessary to avoid overheating your hog, and can be found here or here)
- A thermometer to tell you the temperature of the actual cage (100% necessary no matter what heating source you use, found here or here)
Space Heater
If you have multiple hogs, you may find it easier and cheaper to heat the entire room. A space heater can be a great option, as long as you monitor the temperatures of each cage with a digital thermometer (here or here) and ensure that the heating is adequate.
**No matter what heating source you use (even if you keep your home at 78 degrees and don't require one), you MUST have a thermometer (here or here) in the cage to read the temperature at all times.**
Your Hedgehog's Diet
High quality cat food should be the staple of your hedgehog's diet. The food should have a minimum guaranteed protein content of 30-33%, with no higher than 35%. Higher than 35% protein will cause liver damage to your hog and substantially shorten its lifespan. The minimum fat content of your food should be 10-12%. These percentages may be tweaked slightly for each hog. Avid runners will need a higher fat content. Lazy potatoes/chunkers will need a lower fat mix. Many owners choose to buy multiple brands of food and create a balanced mix for their hog. Several breeders sell their mixes through their websites as well. Mixes can be beneficial because they provide a lot of variety, especially if you combine different main sources of protein. It's also helpful if a food gets recalled, because you have plenty of other foods to use instead.
When selecting a food, it is important to be mindful of the ingredients. Look for foods that use a solid source of protein as one of the first ingredients, such as "duck" or "chicken meal", rather than a filler, like "corn" or "corn meal". Here is a wonderful list of acceptable foods for hedgehogs.
Commercial hedgehog food, in general, is medium quality at best. They mostly contain "filler ingredients" and are of low quality. If a breeder suggests you use "hedgehog food", they are not to be trusted. Several commercial branded hedgehog foods are outright dangerous and unhealthy for hedgehogs (if they contain nuts, fried fruits, raisins, etc.). In short, hedgehog food is not recommended, as even the best brand is only "okay" compared to a quality cat food.
When selecting a food, it is important to be mindful of the ingredients. Look for foods that use a solid source of protein as one of the first ingredients, such as "duck" or "chicken meal", rather than a filler, like "corn" or "corn meal". Here is a wonderful list of acceptable foods for hedgehogs.
Commercial hedgehog food, in general, is medium quality at best. They mostly contain "filler ingredients" and are of low quality. If a breeder suggests you use "hedgehog food", they are not to be trusted. Several commercial branded hedgehog foods are outright dangerous and unhealthy for hedgehogs (if they contain nuts, fried fruits, raisins, etc.). In short, hedgehog food is not recommended, as even the best brand is only "okay" compared to a quality cat food.
Treats
Hedgehogs' diets can be rounded out by a plethora of treats.
Safe Treats
**Always use moderation, and be mindful of fat content**
Unsafe Treats
If you are unsure if a particular treat is safe, err on the side of caution and DON'T FEED. Better safe than sorry.
Safe Treats
- Mealworms, wax worms, dubia, superworms, crickets (store-bought ONLY, never from outside)
- Freeze dried insects (in moderation, to avoid impaction and constipation)
- Fruits
- Vegetables
- Unseasoned cooked meat (chicken, turkey, beef, fish, etc.)
- Unseasoned scrambled/hardboiled eggs
- Baby food (avoid "meal" varieties)
- Wet cat food
**Always use moderation, and be mindful of fat content**
Unsafe Treats
- Dried fruit (choking hazard)
- Grapes (toxic)
- Citrus/acidic fruits: tomatoes, lemons, limes, pineapple, etc.
- Nuts (choking hazard)
- Seeds (choking hazard)
- Avocado
- Chocolate (and other human junk food)
If you are unsure if a particular treat is safe, err on the side of caution and DON'T FEED. Better safe than sorry.
Wheels
Wheels are the only other necessity your hedgehog will need. Bucket wheels are the best option by far. Some wonderful sellers of bucket wheels are Carolina Storm Hedgehogs and Volcano View Hedgehogs. Both of these venders also sell litter trays to go under the wheels - these are strongly recommended.
Things to look for in a wheel:
Acceptable Wheels
Unacceptable Wheels
Things to look for in a wheel:
- Solid running surface (no wire wheels, no "Wodent" wheels)
- 10.5"-12" diameter
- 5" running surface
Acceptable Wheels
- 12" comfort wheel (found here and in most pet stores)
- Bucket wheels (10.5" CSBW, 10.5" VVH bucket wheel [translucent], or 11" VVH bucket wheel [solid colors])
- 12" cake topper wheels, great for large/overweight hogs (sold by Carolina Storm Hedgehogs here and Volcano View Hedgehogs here)
Unacceptable Wheels
- Wire wheels of any size (toes/feet can get caught)
- Wodent wheels
- Silent spinner wheels (the cracks pose a threat to little feet)
- Flying saucer wheel (not horrible, but not good)
- Carolina Storm Express Wheels (too narrow of a running surface)